Figaro Chain Guide: The Italian Link Pattern Explained by Goldsmiths

A Figaro chain is a gold chain with a repeating pattern of flattened links, most often three short links followed by one longer link. It originated in Italy, lies flat like a curb chain, is strong and easy to repair, and gives a classic chain a bit of rhythm without being loud.

In this guide our goldsmiths explain where the Figaro pattern comes from, how these chains are made, how they compare with curb and cable chains, and how to wear and care for one. For the full lineup of chain styles, see our gold chain types guide.

What is a Figaro chain?

At its heart, a Figaro chain is a variation of the curb chain. The links are twisted and flattened so they lie flat on the skin and interlock neatly. What makes it a Figaro is the pattern: a group of short links, then one elongated link, repeated along the whole length.

The classic ratio is 3:1, three short links to one long. You will also see 1:1, 2:1 or other ratios, and some designers add texture or diamond-cutting to the long link. Diamond-cut here means faceted metal, not diamonds.

Where the name comes from

The style is widely associated with Italian chainmaking, and the name is commonly linked to the character Figaro from European opera. The origin of the name is not documented precisely, so we prefer to keep it at that: an Italian classic that has been made by chainmakers in many countries for decades.

How Figaro chains are made

In general, the process follows the curb chain method. Gold wire is formed into oval links of two lengths, assembled in the chosen pattern, and each link is closed and soldered. The chain is then twisted slightly and pressed so the links lie flat and interlock, which is the defining curb-family step.

After pressing, the chain may be diamond-cut for extra sparkle, then tumbled and polished. A clasp is added, and quality chains are stamped with their gold content. Ours carry the 585 mark for solid 14K gold. For more on the general process, read how gold chains are made.

How strong is a Figaro chain?

A solid Figaro chain is a strong everyday chain. Because the links are soldered and flattened to interlock, the chain spreads load evenly and resists stretching. The long links are slightly more exposed if snagged, but in solid gold of a reasonable thickness that is rarely a problem.

The weak points, as with most chains, are the clasp and the end rings. Check them from time to time, especially if you wear a pendant every day.

Kink and tangle risk

Figaro chains are low maintenance. The links still rotate around each other, so they do not crease the way a flat herringbone can. Because the links are flattened and fairly substantial, Figaro chains also tangle less than very fine cable or box chains.

The one habit to avoid is throwing a fine Figaro chain loose into a drawer with other necklaces. Fasten the clasp and keep each chain in its own compartment or pouch. If you do end up with a knot, work it loose gently with two pins rather than pulling, which can stretch links.

How to wear a Figaro chain

With a pendant

Figaro chains are one of the most popular chains for pendants. The pattern is interesting enough to show between the pendant and the clasp, but calm enough not to compete with the pendant itself. Sculpted pendants, such as birds, crosses or coins, sit nicely on them.

14K Solid Gold Phoenix Necklace View Phoenix Necklace on Etsy

When choosing a pendant, make sure the bail opening is wide enough to pass over the long links, and that the pendant's weight suits the chain width.

Alone

A medium Figaro chain worn on its own at collarbone length is a quiet, classic look for every day. Wider Figaro chains read as a stronger statement and are popular as men's chains and bracelets.

Layered

A Figaro works well as the middle layer in a necklace stack: a fine cable chain above it, a longer pendant necklace below. Its flat links contrast nicely with rounder chains. Our necklace length guide helps you plan the spacing, and you can browse gold necklaces for layering partners.

14K Solid Gold Cable Chain Necklace View Cable Chain Necklace on Etsy 14K Solid Gold Phoenix Necklace View Phoenix Necklace on Etsy

On the wrist

Figaro bracelets have a polished, slightly traditional feel. They stack well with curb and mariner styles, which share the same flat, interlocking character. See our curb chain guide for more on that family.

14K Solid Gold Mariner Link Bracelet View Mariner Link Bracelet on Etsy

Choosing a Figaro chain

• Pattern ratio: 3:1 is the classic; other ratios give a busier or calmer look.
• Width: narrower for pendants and layering, wider for wearing alone.
• Finish: polished for a soft glow, diamond-cut for more sparkle.
• Construction: choose solid gold. All of our pieces are solid 14K gold, never plated, gold-filled, vermeil or semi-hollow.

How to care for a Figaro chain

1. Clean every few weeks in warm water with a drop of mild dish soap.
2. Use a soft brush to reach between the links, especially around the long ones where lotion collects.
3. Rinse well and pat dry, then let it air dry before storing.
4. Store with the clasp fastened, apart from other pieces.
5. Remove it for heavy work, contact sports and swimming in chlorinated pools.

Solid 14K gold does not rust and does not need replating. With basic care, a Figaro chain will look the same in many years as it does today, and our lifetime guarantee covers the craftsmanship.

Figaro chains as gifts

A Figaro chain is a thoughtful gift because it works for almost any age and style. For someone who already owns a favorite pendant, a new Figaro chain gives it a fresh base. For a graduate or a first gold piece, a pendant on a Figaro chain is a classic combination. Every order arrives in our illuminated jewelry box, so it is ready to give.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a Figaro chain and a curb chain?

Both have flattened, interlocking links. A curb chain uses links of one size, while a Figaro alternates short links with a longer link, usually in a 3:1 pattern.

Is a Figaro chain good for pendants?

Yes. It is one of the most popular pendant chains because it is strong, lies flat and has a pattern that does not compete with the pendant.

Do Figaro chains tangle?

They tangle less than fine cable or box chains because the links are flat and substantial. Fasten the clasp and store each chain separately to be safe.

Can a broken Figaro chain be repaired?

Usually yes. Because it is made of individual soldered links, a goldsmith can typically replace or resolder a damaged link.

Are Figaro chains a men's style?

They are worn by everyone. Wider Figaro chains are popular with men, while finer ones are a common choice for women's pendant necklaces.