Figaro Chain Guide: The Italian Link Pattern Explained by Goldsmiths
Figaro chain guide: what the short and long link pattern is, how it is made, how strong it is, how to wear it with a pendant and how to keep it clean.

Solid gold and sterling silver are both real precious metals, but they behave very differently in daily life. Solid 14K gold resists tarnish, holds its color for decades and needs little care, while sterling silver is more affordable to start with but tarnishes, scratches more easily and needs regular polishing.
We are goldsmiths and we only sell solid 14K gold, so we will be upfront about that. Silver is a lovely metal and it is the right choice for some people and some pieces. This guide sets out the honest trade-offs so you can decide what fits your life.
| Feature | Solid 14K gold | Sterling silver |
|---|---|---|
| Composition | 58.5% pure gold plus alloy | 92.5% pure silver plus alloy, usually copper |
| Common stamp | 14K or 585 | 925 or Sterling |
| Tarnish | Rarely tarnishes in normal wear | Tarnishes; darkens with air and moisture |
| Hardness | Harder; holds detail and shape well | Softer; scratches and bends more easily |
| Colors | Yellow, white, rose, two-tone | Bright white-gray |
| Care | Occasional gentle wash | Regular polishing and careful storage |
| Water and daily wear | Handles most daily routines well | Best removed for showers and swimming |
| Material value | High, based on gold content | Much lower per gram |
Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver, which is why it is stamped 925. The remaining 7.5% is usually copper, added because pure silver is too soft for most jewelry. Solid 14K gold is 58.5% pure gold, stamped 585, with the rest made up of metals such as silver, copper and zinc.
The word "solid" matters. Many pieces sold as "gold" are actually sterling silver with a thin layer of gold on top, often called vermeil or gold plated silver. These look like gold at first but wear through over time. Our guide to solid gold vs gold filled vs gold plated explains the differences.
Silver reacts with sulfur compounds in the air, in sweat and in some foods and cosmetics. Over weeks or months, this forms a dark layer of tarnish. It can be polished away, but it keeps coming back, especially in humid climates or if the piece sits unworn.
Pure gold does not react with air at all. In 14K gold, the alloy metals could in theory react, but with more than half the piece being gold, tarnish is rare in normal wear. Most 14K pieces only need a gentle wash to look bright again. For details, read does 14K gold tarnish.
Sterling silver is softer than 14K gold. That makes silver easier to work by hand, which is part of its charm, but it also means:
14K gold holds fine details like pave settings, diamond-cut facets and thin prongs for many years of daily wear. You can usually shower and sleep in solid 14K gold, although we still suggest removing jewelry for swimming pools, heavy workouts and cleaning with chemicals. See can you shower with 14K gold for the full picture.
Tube Hoop Earrings
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Sleeper Earrings Square Edge Hoops
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Both metals are generally well tolerated. Most metal allergies are caused by nickel, which some alloys contain. Sterling silver usually uses copper as its alloy, and some people find copper or tarnish leaves a gray or green mark on their skin. 14K gold can also cause reactions if its alloy includes nickel, which is most common in some white gold.
If you have sensitive skin, ask the seller about the alloy and read our guide to gold jewelry for sensitive skin.
Silver has a cool, bright white tone that suits minimalist and modern styles and pairs well with cool-toned clothing. Gold comes in more colors: classic yellow, pink rose gold and white gold, which has a similar cool look to silver but with gold's durability.
If you love the look of silver but want the low maintenance of gold, white gold is worth considering. Our white gold jewelry guide explains how it works, including its rhodium finish.
Pearl Halo Stud Earrings
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Tubular Crucifix Necklace
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We do not talk about prices or investing, so here is the plain material picture. Gold is a far rarer metal than silver, so a gram of 14K gold contains much more material value than a gram of sterling silver. A silver piece is easier to buy at first; a gold piece holds more value in the metal itself.
The other side of value is how long a piece stays wearable. A solid gold chain that does not tarnish and can be repaired many times may stay in daily use for decades and be passed down. Our article on why gold jewelry costs more than scrap gold explains what you pay for in any piece.
Here is our honest advice, even though we only make gold:
For gifts, the same logic applies. A silver piece suits a playful, short-term trend, while solid gold suits a milestone such as a graduation, a wedding or a new baby, when the gift is meant to be worn and kept for many years.
Many people own both. A silver cuff for weekends and a solid gold chain that never comes off is a very sensible mix.
Every Şerif Ağa piece is solid 14K gold stamped 585, with a lifetime guarantee on craftsmanship. Browse our gold necklaces and gold rings.
Yes. Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver, mixed with a small amount of another metal, usually copper, to make it strong enough for jewelry.
Solid gold usually lasts longer in daily wear because it is harder and does not tarnish. Silver can last for generations too, but it needs more polishing and care.
No. Vermeil is sterling silver with a layer of gold on top. The gold layer can wear away over time, revealing the silver underneath.
Yes. Mixing metals is a popular look. Two-tone gold pieces can help tie silver and yellow gold together in one outfit.
No. We are goldsmiths and every piece we make is solid 14K gold stamped 585, never plated, gold-filled or vermeil.
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